ポリエステルの可能性
The possibilities of polyester
Polyester is by far the most common material composing PGG’s clothing, making up over 85% of material used. With its unique weight and feel, polyester is light and easy to carry. It can be folded up small without wrinkling, its color does not fade easily, and it dries quickly. It also saves space because it doesn’t require hangers, and it can be shipped in environmentally friendly ways. Polyester is derived from petroleum. From a design perspective, it’s an adaptable and responsive material that allows designers to realize their imaginations to the fullest. It is PGG’s mission to use advanced knitting and weaving technologies to sublimate this material full of possibilities into clothing with a wide variety of looks.
「TUFLEX」
This season, we pursued materials that possessed both stretchability and softness, and started the use of an original material that makes use of “recycled fiber” made from used pet bottles that were collected for reuse. For the first time, “TUFLEX” was able to replace just the weft with recycled polyester and add stretchability to the warp for better function, creating a product that has become more elastic than the previous “TUFLEX” products. Its waterproof and water-repellent features and the fact that it is non-coated allow it to have a moisture-permeable waterproof function that enables all moisture to be driven out. Normally, this amount of stretchability causes the water-repellent features to become impaired, but both stretchability and the water-repellent features are maintained.
*“TUFLEX” is a registered trademark of Unitika Ltd.
In addition to functionality, we have realized a delicate and beautiful dobby weave pattern. Unlike jacquard, this smooth dobby pattern does not have unevenness in the fabric, so it is flat, lustrous, neither thin nor light, and feels exactly like polyester. The fabric, presence, comforting weight, and the appropriate sensation of mass felt by the body are truly techniques accomplished by low technology.
QUILTING
We have used quilting to create clothes that are lightweight and stretchable. Diamond patterns and stitches are not appropriate for stretching and would result in tears, so we used a “hyotan” (gourd) pattern to not only allow these stretch pants to accommodate a wider range of motion but also maintain the fabric’s supple feel. The fabric is unique for its ability to stretch laterally, and each part is processed with a quilting machine while preserving this feature. We chose the soft material “POLARTEC Power Fill” for the batting. Previously used by the U.S. military, this is a synthetic-fiber batting material that comes in sheets and is used in clothing for keeping warm, such as ski wear and belay jackets. It is produced from recycled materials such as PET collected from consumers. Cotton padded zippers that are lightweight and retain heat well are fitted on the reverse side to create a level finish.
*Belaying refers to having a partner who ensures the climber’s safety when climbing with ropes, a technique often used when navigating challenging environments.
POLYESTER YARN KNIT
This season, PGG thought about cold protection for the first time and added new designs with a combination of wool and polyester to the polyester and yarn knit series. We aimed to create knitwear that has an appropriate amount of volume. The warmness of the wool and the light and supple polyester threads are modern. When polyester is made into fabric, it is highly elastic, breathable, and comfortable to wear. Using the neck and sleeve holes that are accents of the clothes, we shaped them such that they gave off an impression of sharp firmness. Thanks to this volume, we were able to reduce the amount of thread and realize the lightness of the fabric.
Polyester yarn is strong enough to weave thinner fabrics that are more resilient. We always try to find the perfect balance by changing the yarn density and knitted fabric according to the season and items. Also noteworthy are new variations such as this season’s key color of khaki, hooded apparel, and knitted bottoms with a beautiful silhouette.
LEE × PGG
When I thought about wanting to create denim that is light, tough, and has a beautiful silhouette, the partner that came to mind was “Lee”, a jeans brand born in the United States with 100 years of history and that is loved even now for its quality and comfort. What if PGG’s ideas were added to it? Such an endeavor started in the previous season. This time is a jacket that lightly exudes the classic vibe of “Lee” as everyday wear that is highly usable. Its handsome silhouette, playful fabric, and lightness that make one want to wear it blend into the city scene. These photographs were shot in an everyday corner of the city that can be found anywhere in Tokyo. The blue of the denim is a color that was born last season with the vibrant sea of the Amami Islands as the motif. The tailored jacket with a modern silhouette makes use of patch pockets, which is the unchanging trademark of “Lee”. PGG has added its characteristic elements which are heat-cut button holes and sleeve fasteners for a modern touch and the renewable polyester gives it a light and stretchy.
We also came up with extremely playful accessory items with “Lee”. As this is the first season for which PGG thought about cold protection, the inside of the bag is lined with white bore, which is the essence of “Lee”. On the warm gloves and muffler are printed the originally-designed logo in which PGG and Lee’s logos have joined into one.
NAYAMI
The worldview that is covered by PGG’s logotype seems as if one’s mind is filled up with everyday troubles. The pattern born from such days filled with troubles is the “NAYAM” pattern. What we truly need to face, living in this age, is the strength to accept even negative things. A strong faith that withstands even harsh circumstances and is not shaken. The flexibility to be willing to stop and the decisiveness to intentionally reconsider. That is what I think it is.